Modeling Tips

From CollabLandWiki

This section is here to provide useful hints and tips when constructing a model. Please feel free to add your own advice that could be useful to others.

Contents 1 Types of Material 2 Cutting Material (General) 3 Cutting Balsa Wood 4 Cutting Bass Wood 5 Cutting Wood (General) 6 Construction 6.1 Pieces and Parts 6.2 Assemble the Pile

Types of Material

+ There are numerous materials for which to build a model, in fact there are few that can not be used. All are acceptable to use for mock models, however, there are only a few that are considered acceptable for use in presentation models(*).

• Cardboard:

~ Corrugated reused/recycled from old boxes;

~ Pre-separated corrugated (usually bought on a roll)*;

~ Cereal boxes, old food boxes, etc.;

~ Chipboard* (* - only if used sparingly to show contrast);

~ Backer/"portfolio" cardboard (not museum board);

• Paper:

~ Printer paper (great for rip-and-tear models);

~ Construction paper;

~ Heavyweight paper;

~ Museum Board* - but why waste the money (* - only if used sparingly to show contrast);

• Wood:

~ Balsa* (* - for the first/second year projects);

~ Bass*;

~ Other species* (not as readily available as balsa and bass and require extensive prep-work to get into a form to be able to work with);

• Other Materials:

~ Acrylic & Plexiglas* (be aware they scratch easily);

~ Clear sheet PVC* (good for simulating glass, but difficult to attach. Glue does not adhere well);

~ Sheet metal;

Cutting Material (General)

+ Keep an even pace. Changing speeds while cutting produces variable widths in the cuts. The edge will have a 'wavy' look to it and/or bulges which will lead to additional unwanted sanding to get the piece to fit correctly.

+ Measure Twice or Thrice, Cut Once.

+ Mark the wood do not draw on it. Most people when they start modeling will place "dots" on the material

+ Most importantly... SLOW DOWN and PAY ATTENTION!! At some point in time you will cut yourself it is just a matter to what extent. Reduce your chances by being careful.

Cutting Balsa Wood

+ Try to cut across the grain.

+ Balsa wood is extremely soft and porous. Typically the blade will follow the grain (as with all woods)and not the cut line or in many cases the wood will simply split. If you absolutely must cut with the grain try implementing these strategies:

~ use a straight edge and cut along the side you do not need;

~ cut slowly;

~ use a sharp blade (using a dull blade is equivalent to using a maul to split logs);

~ cut exactly in line with the grain (remember the cutting edge will want to follow the grain);

~ try compressing the piece along the cut line as you cut.

Cutting Bass Wood

+ Bass wood is much more forgiving than balsa, but it does have its own issues.

+ Due to having tighter grain, cutting with the grain is not as problematic; however, if you cut too fast the blade may "jump off" your cut line. As with all woods, the blade is going to want to follow the grain.

~ use a straight edge and cut along the side you do not need;

~ cut slowly;

~ make multiple passes, do not try to cut through on the first pass;

~ the sharpness of the blade is not as important as with balsa, yet if it is taking you twice as many passes to get through as when the blade was new, consider changing the blade;

+ Cut across the grain. It will be more difficult than cutting with the grain, but the mistakes (and chances for) are far less.

Cutting Wood (General)

+ If after you cut the edge might have a slight slope or bevel to it. There are three things that can be done to correct this problem:

~ PRACTICE! Adjust the angle of the blade (side to side). Change the grip on the blade. Experiment with other techniques and revise your own;

~ Sand the edge so that it is perpendicular to the face;

~ SLOW DOWN!

+ Knots. All wood no matter what grade has knots. Do not slow down, just pass over the spot several more times until you cut through (changing speeds creates an uneven cut much like drawing a line and varying the speed at which you draw).

Construction

Pieces and Parts

I. Stocking the Yard

+ There are typically two ways of constructing a model and each has their own benefits (+) and drawbacks (-):

• Cut then Assemble.

~ (+) This way allows one to be a bit more organized and keep the work area cleaner;

~ (+) All the pieces are there all you have to do is build (your progress is much more apparent);

~ (-) Pieces can get lost or 'mysteriously disappear';

~ (-) Sometimes with even the most precise cuts, the pieces just do not fit together. If you have several repeating elements, you may have just wasted your time and supplies.

• Assemble as you Cut.

~ (+) If something is off, it is easily corrected and further pieces can be adjusted to fit;

~ (+) Design changes can be made 'on the fly';

~ (-) The workspace is generally untidy which can lead to missing pieces/equipment and 'accidents';

~ (-) The work seems to proceed much slower and frustration can settle in quickly.

+ Try a Combination.

~ Cut out all the non-repeating or major elements and construct those, then move to the secondary elements;

~ Construct one of the repeating elements to make sure it goes together correctly and fits properly into the whole, then proceed with mass production;

~ Cut out selective pieces to construct the building in phases (each floor, a single unit, etc.) *CAUTION* - Be aware of elements that are present in multiple phases/floors and plan accordingly.

+ After you gain experience...devise a way that works for you.

II. Organization

+ Devise a way to keep your building components organized and safe. People have spent hours re-doing work and wasting material which could have been avoided.

+ Keep your workspace tidy. This is nearly impossible, so periodically take a break and clean up your area. You may say there is no time for that, but trust me it will be greatly beneficial in the end - plus it gives you a small break from the monotony.

+ TAKE BREAKS. When you feel frustration settling in, get to a close stopping point and take a breather. More mistakes are made by working straight through until completion.

Assemble the Pile

I. Measure Twice, Glue Once

+ Before you go and permanently adhere any mistakes together, 'Dry Fit' your model (aka assemble the model without glue).

+ If pieces must be fixed in order for the model to stand, try using masking tape or small amount of Tacky Glue (not the quick drying formula). Neither will stain the wood if only left on for a short amount of time.

+ Once everything is fitted properly, take a picture of the "pre-glued" model and label the pieces (a number on an attached piece of masking tape works). This will ensure that the model pieces match up correctly during final gluing.

II. Pick Your Poison and Use It Sparingly

+ Choices, Choices, Choices. There are typically three glues (with varying formulas themselves) that are used in the model making process within studio: tacky glue, wood glue, and super glue.

• Tacky Glue: Your all purpose adhesive.

~ Fairly quick setting and workable while drying;

~ Tacky glue will adhere most all materials together sufficiently;

~ Also, it rarely stains the material (if it does it is usually not noticeable) and can easily be cleaned up with an X-acto knife;

~ The drawback, because of its plastic nature, joints are not as rigid and will come apart with time (however, unless you really want to keep your model for all eternity, I would not loose sleep over it).

• Wood Glue: Use only after practice.

~ Far stronger than tacky glue, and will give the joints a cleaner appearance;

~ Greatest use is with small connections. Tacky glue has a tendency to 'let go' if not used in decent amounts and the bond is easily broken if the slightest pressure is applied;

~ Only effectively works on wood;

~ Easily stains wood and can not be easily 'cleaned up';

~ Long initial and long term set-up time;

~ Once dry, the pieces being bound can only be separated by cutting along the joint. Its a time consuming and difficult process. You are better off starting over;

~ Even with the negative aspects, using wood glue will produce a cleaner looking and physically stronger model.

• Super Glue: A great temptation that can cost you.

~ While it may seem the strongest of the three, it causes the most headaches;

~ Extraordinarily difficult to work with;

• Will spread over any surface without consideration (this can not be controlled) and can not be cleaned off;

• Absorbs into the wood and will not bond two pieces together without additional applications;

~ Your fingers will stick to the material. Not only will this ruin your model, but pull the skin from your fingers.

• Other Glues: There might come a time where you might have to use material specific glues for your model (i.e. – acrylic bonder, epoxy, etc.). All that can be said is…read the instructions.

+ Dab and Smear. Excess glue is one of the main causes for low quality models. Careful control of the amount and application of the glue is crucial to a well crafted model. Only use these tips with wood or tacky glue.

~ Apply dabs (or dots) to the edge, do not ‘run a line’ down the edge;

~ Run your finger (yes your going to get messy) along the edge to spread the glue on the edge evenly.

~ If you really do not want glue all over you, pour some onto a scrap and use a toothpick to spread the glue.

+ Clean your mess. Use toothpicks and your fingers to wipe any excess from around the joints before the glue dries.

III. Finish It

+ After the glue has set, clean the joints by scraping them with an X-acto knife. Be careful not to cut or gouge the wood.

+ Before assembling all the pieces be sure to clean-up the joints. Doing so when the model is complete could be difficult and potentially damage the model.

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